Samstag, 20. August 2016

Frankenjura summer 2016

I spent a few weeks in Frankenjura trying old and new projects. The old projects I wanted to try felt very bad this time and the weather was very wet and warm. So I tried some new routes and decided to try Riesenslalom direct 8b at Püttlacher Wand. It was fun to climb this route because compared to my other projects in Frankenjura it is very long and I got into a good climbing flow. After a few attempts I managed to climb it almost to the top. During my attempt it began to rain so much, that the last few meters of the route were absolutely unclimbable. After visiting the Outdoor in Friedrichshafen I was happy to sent my first 8b in Frankenjura in the first attempt. Way more difficult for me was the Peacemaker, a classic from Wolfgang Güllich which is graded 7C+ and felt like 8a+. It took me three days to find a good solution and four days to send it. Unbelievable, how hard and pumpy two meters in a crack can be. Luckily I managed to climb it the last day of my trip. I was very proud to climb this beautiful classical line. First pics Riesenslalom direct, the following Peacemaker.

Dienstag, 28. Juni 2016

Funcup Hamburg and northern championship

My summer started with two competitions. The first one was the nothern bouldering championship in Bremen at the new gym "Boulderbase". I flashed almost all boulders in every round which was a very good experience for me and helped me to win the competition as well. Luckily the training in winter made me feel very strong. The second competition was the funcup in Hamburg. It was nice to meet a lot of nice people and to climb with them. I made the first place although I couldn´t top the final route, which disappointed me a bit. Now I am looking forward to climb in Frankenjura in Juli. That will be my summervacacion and I hope I will be able to use my good shape for some ascents. Enjoy the pics from Anna Stubbe

Sonntag, 24. April 2016

Spring 2016

The last two weeks of March I spent in Boux, France, climbing with the northern Rock Climbing Team. These were my first days of rock climbing this year and I enjoyed the sun and the great landscape. Boux is a very classic area with hard graded routes, that I found very demanding in a technical way. I couldn`t really find a project but a lot of nice routes with great views on the beautiful valley. The last days were spent in St. Leger de ventoux, which offers a lot of overhanging routes with Tufas, which are abolutely my style. I can really recommend to visit this area since there is free parking for vans, free toilets in the village and a great variety of routes. I am looking forward to returning to this crack in the future. After a week in Hamburg, that I spent working, I had the next oppotunity to visit a new climbing area. I met the Edelrid Team, which I joined lately, in the Maltatal in Austria. We had a few very busy days, taking pictures for the handbook 2017. I really enjoyed the time with the other athletes, which I found very nice. My next trip will be in May. Until then I will train in the gym with a focus on fingerstrenght in order to be prepared for my projects in Frankenjura. You can find a few pictures from Boux and Maltatal below. Yesterday I competed at the northern bouldering championships in Boulder Base Bremen. I had a very good day, flashing almost all boulders in all rounds and therefore won the competition. Fotos coming soon.

Freitag, 11. März 2016

What happened next?

After my trip and a few more weeks in Frankenjura in September it was time for me to settle down in Hamburg. I got my first job as psychologist and enjoy working with children and teenagers. It´s no fulltime job, so I took my freetime to work on my strength and my technique, focusing on shoulderpower and finger strenght as well as crossing moves, and jumps. Now I feel prepared for the first climbing trip to Boux in a week, where I will join the Felskader Norddeutschland. I am looking forward, to feel rock in my hands! From the clip you can get an impression of a few of my recent training Boulders as well as you can see a few pics of the Hardmoves semi final at Flashh Boulderspot in Hamburg.

Dienstag, 20. Oktober 2015

Autumn in Frankenjura

In September me and a few friends had a good time in Frankenjura. For the first time we visited some sights, like museums, castles and the Maximiliansgrotte. It was fun to see some parts of Frankenjura besides the climbing crags.
About the climbing: I used the time to visit a lot of new crags, searching new projects. Since I didn´t send one of them I am planning to use them to motivate me for training this winter, so that I can climb them next year. I sent Steep mud (8a pics below) wich has some reachy bouldermoves, that I really enjoyed and I sent my "long-term project" starlightexpress (7c) at Zwergenschloss (picture above). It took me more trials than any other 7c so far. I also visited some bouldercrags with Markus "Ixi" Ixmeier. He took some impressive pictures that you can find below. After travelling for almost two years I am now starting my training as psychotherapist in Berlin while working in Hamburg.

Donnerstag, 30. Juli 2015

Back in the north

A few weeks have passed since my last post so this is a short summary about my last days in Spain and the first weeks back in Germany. I really enjoyed may, surfing in Portugal, doing something else than climbing, but after three weeks it was time for me to go back to climbing. So we went to Albarracín for bouldering. After the break I was very weak and it was annoying to fail on boulders that I usually manage easily. One week later I became a bit stronger and was happy to send “wave” a 7C traverse at parking sector (right picture) and a few other nice boulders. Actually Albarracín is not a summer area, but due to the cloudy rainy weather it wasn’t too warm. We wanted to go back to Germany, so we decided to head north and stopped by at Targassonne. It was my first time in this area. There are a few nice boulders, but the sharp Granit is not really my favorite. After two days we headed to Germany and had a very nice end of our trip at a hot spring at Fontpedruse. It was wonderful to take a hot bath in the middle of a beautiful valley under a sky full of stars.

 The first weeks in Germany I worked as climbing coach in Oldenburg and after a week of training in the gym I competed at the German Bouldercup at the Outdoor Show in Friedrichshafen. I made the 10th place, which is okay for me, since I really didn’t train on plastic the whole year. We spent a few days in magic Wood and I was happy to send the classic “Supernova” (7C) (picture below). Then I went to Sustenpass to see a new boulder area for two days. I really enjoyed the mountain atmosphere and a bit of snow there and I am looking forward to go there once again. Now I´m psyched to train intensively with Stefan and I am looking forward to spend the rest of summer in my “home area” Frankenjura to find some new projects there.
Pictures: Markus Ixmeier/, Stefan Bühl